The Early Years: Classic Elegance (1930s–1950s)
In the early years of Indian cinema, the fashion scene was largely inspired by traditional Indian clothing, reflecting the cultural milieu of the time. The first decades of Bollywood were heavily influenced by the art and style of the era. The costumes worn by actresses were largely traditional — sarees, lehengas, and anarkalis were common. The focus was on maintaining a regal and sophisticated appearance, often reflecting the aristocratic values of the time.
Key figures in the era:
- Devika Rani: Often referred to as the “First Lady of Indian Cinema,” Devika Rani is regarded as a fashion icon. She set the stage for the sophisticated, glamorous heroines of the future with her western-inspired attire, including evening gowns and tailored dresses.
- Nargis and Meena Kumari: In films like Mother India and Baiju Bawra, these actresses personified the classic charm of Indian womanhood, opting for sarees and simple but elegant looks that portrayed purity and grace.
The films of the 1950s and 1960s maintained a similar aesthetic, though they began to reflect a growing urban and cosmopolitan outlook. The heroines of this period often donned sarees with elegant draping styles, accessorized with bold jewelry. The male actors also began experimenting with Western-inspired fashion, adding modern suits and tuxedos to their wardrobe.
The 1960s-1970s: Glamour and Experimentation
The 1960s and 1970s marked the onset of a major shift in Bollywood’s fashion narrative. This period saw the emergence of stars who began to influence fashion on a grand scale, not just in terms of costumes but also through their personal style.
- Vyjayantimala in Madhumati (1958) and Sadhna in Waqt (1965) brought the “Sadhna Cut” to the forefront, a hairstyle that became iconic for women in the 1960s.
- Sharmila Tagore in Kashmir Ki Kali (1964) and An Evening in Paris (1967) showcased a more experimental approach to fashion. The combination of Western cuts with traditional Indian styles marked a new dawn for Bollywood fashion. Her shift to bikinis in An Evening in Paris was groundbreaking at the time.
Bollywood’s glamour reached new heights with stars like Mumtaz and Hema Malini flaunting bold colors, bell-bottom trousers, and funky prints. The fashion in films like Seeta Aur Geeta (1972) and Rakhwala (1971) epitomized the fun and free-spirited nature of the era.
1980s: The Rise of the Superstars
The 1980s in Bollywood were dominated by the emergence of larger-than-life stars such as Amitabh Bachchan, Hema Malini, Sridevi, and Jaya Prada, whose fashion choices became more distinct and were emblematic of the changing times. The era of disco, glam rock, and extravagant styles influenced Bollywood costumes. Bright colors, flashy metallics, oversized collars, and high-waisted pants were all the rage.
- Sridevi’s fashion evolution in the 1980s and 1990s was significant. From her traditional Indian look in films like Sadma (1983) to her glamorous Western attire in Chandni (1989), Sridevi became an epitome of elegance and sophistication. Her sarees in Chandni became instantly iconic, and the movie’s wardrobe, designed by famous designer Manish Malhotra, continues to inspire even today.
Male actors such as Amitabh Bachchan in Sholay (1975) and Muqaddar Ka Sikandar (1978) sported bell-bottoms, aviator sunglasses, and tight-fitting shirts, presenting an edgier and more confident look that mirrored the growing cultural changes in India.
The 1990s: The Age of Glamour and High Fashion
The 1990s saw a huge explosion of Bollywood as a global phenomenon, with stars like Shah Rukh Khan, Aishwarya Rai, Kajol, Rani Mukerji, and Salman Khan ushering in a new age of star power and fashion. This period also coincided with the growing influence of global fashion trends and the introduction of designer wear in Bollywood.
Bollywood fashion took a more refined turn, with stars donning high-fashion outfits by well-known designers such as Manish Malhotra, Sabyasachi Mukherjee, and Abu Jani-Sandeep Khosla. The costumes in films like Dilwale Dulhania Le Jayenge (1995) and Kuch Kuch Hota Hai (1998) became integral to the storytelling. Kajol’s iconic lehengas in DDLJ and Rani Mukerji’s elegant sarees in Kabhi Alvida Naa Kehna (2006) showcased how fashion could reflect the character’s emotional journeys.
In the 1990s, Bollywood fashion also saw a growing Western influence, particularly with the rise of stylish party wear, designer suits, and formal dresses in the cinematic representation of cosmopolitan lifestyles. Stars like Karishma Kapoor and Shilpa Shetty became synonymous with style, grace, and poise, adopting designer sarees and chic dresses, while maintaining the classic Bollywood glam.
The 2000s: Contemporary and Globalization
The 2000s marked a period of globalization for Bollywood. With the rise of the internet, the world became more connected, and Bollywood films began to cater to an international audience. Fashion in Bollywood films started to reflect more contemporary styles, integrating global trends and fusing them with traditional Indian elements.
- Kareena Kapoor in Kabhi Khushi Kabhie Gham (2001) and Jab We Met (2007) embodied the quintessential modern woman, pairing traditional outfits like sarees with Western-inspired cuts. Her chic yet traditional look influenced fashion on a massive scale, inspiring women across India to experiment with their style.
- Deepika Padukone’s transformation in films like Cocktail (2012) marked a shift towards modernity, incorporating Western styles into everyday outfits and yet retaining Indian charm in certain sequences.
This era also saw Bollywood’s increasing use of brand partnerships and sponsorships. As stars became global icons, their wardrobe choices often had to align with their personal image and marketability. Bollywood fashion was no longer just about cinema — it was about creating a personal brand.
The Present: Sustainable and Trend-Driven Fashion
In the present-day Bollywood, fashion is more dynamic and reflective of global trends, but it is also becoming increasingly conscious of sustainability. With the growing awareness of fast fashion’s impact on the environment, Bollywood stars are making more sustainable choices, opting for eco-friendly fabrics and vintage outfits. Designers like Falguni Shane Peacock, Manish Arora, and Sabyasachi Mukherjee continue to dominate Bollywood’s fashion scene with their unique takes on traditional wear, while also focusing on sustainability.
Bollywood’s influence on street fashion is stronger than ever, with stars like Priyanka Chopra and Alia Bhatt leading the charge in showcasing diversity in style. Red carpets and public appearances now feature bold, experimental choices that combine fashion, art, and self-expression.
The evolution of art and fashion in Bollywood reflects broader cultural shifts and mirrors India’s changing socio-economic and political landscape. From the classic elegance of the 1940s and 50s to the bold, statement-making choices of the present day, Bollywood has always been at the forefront of fashion innovation. Today, fashion in Bollywood is not just about trends; it’s about artistry, expression, and individualism, influencing global fashion in ways that were once unimaginable. As Bollywood continues to grow, so too will its impact on the world of fashion and art, setting new standards of creativity and style for generations to come.
